Fabrication, welding and care

Welding 304 and 316 stainless

TIG, stick, filler metals, heat tint and the Australian standard you should be naming — AS/NZS 1554.6 — instead of a YouTube setting.

TIG welding stainless

Photograph: TIG welding by Mak04. Licensed Public domain. Source file on Wikimedia Commons. Also listed on the image credits and licences page.

Published 9 March 2026 · 5 minute read · Filed under Fabrication, welding and care

The photograph on this page is the honest part of stainless fabrication: an arc, a puddle, a chance to ruin a good alloy. Australian structural and shop welding of stainless sits under AS/NZS 1554.6 when the work is in that world. A blog is not a WPS. This essay is the briefing you read before you write one, or before you decide the job is a hygienic TIG bead on a bench return.

It lives in the fabrication and care hub because the weld is only half the job. The other half is cleanliness, tint removal, passivation, and the wash that stops tea staining starting on the bead.

Match the alloy, then the filler

304 versus 316 still applies after the clamp. 304/304L typically sees 308L filler. 316/316L typically sees 316L filler. Welding 316 with a 304 filler on a coastal post is how you localise a weaker alloy at the hottest line.

Low-carbon grades (the L) exist to reduce sensitisation — chromium carbides that leave the heat-affected zone easier to corrode. If you are welding, you should be buying L or proving the procedure. A slow, hot pass on non-L plate is how you decorate the HAZ with a stripe that pits first.

430 is a different family. Do not weld it like an austenitic and hope. This essay is 304 and 316.

Parent metalUsual fillerWhyWhat not to do
304 / 304LER308L / 308L consumableMatches the austenitic, low carbonA random “stainless” rod from the mixed tin
316 / 316LER316L / 316L consumableKeeps molybdenum in the weld metal308 onto a coastal 316 rail
304 to 316 joint316L filler is the usual grown-up choiceThe weld should not be the weaker alloyPretending the joint is “all 316” if one side is 304
430 or unknownA procedure written for that familyDifferent structure, different riskThis page’s 308 habit

Name the heat. Keep the certificate. If the bar is flat bar stamped 316 and the sheet is 304, the fillet is a mixed-metal story even before you pick a rod.

TIG versus stick

TIG (GTAW) is the Australian default for seen stainless: benches, returns, architectural tube, thin angle and channel. It gives control and a smaller puddle.

Stick (MMAW) earns its keep on thicker site work and places a TIG torch is a luxury. It is not a hygiene process on a 1.2 mm bench. This page will not give you amps. Those belong on a WPS. YouTube is not AS/NZS 1554.6.

ProcessWhere it earns its keepWhat it will not forgive
TIG / GTAWHygiene, architecture, thin sheet, tubeDirty metal, no purge on a corrosion ID, a wandering foot
Stick / MMAWThicker site structural, outdoor framesCosmetic sheet, thin kitchen returns, slag left in a crevice
MIG / GMAW (when specified)Production fillets on suitable jointsTreating it as TIG with a trigger

The orbital weld on the credits page looks clean because the metal and the purge were clean, not because the machine is magic.

Cleanliness is the procedure

Austenitics pick up carbon-steel contamination and then display it as rust. Dedicated brushes, dedicated grinding, no shared wire wheels. The orbital sample is pretty because the metal was clean. Protecting stainless during install is half of welding.

Oil, marker, and film adhesive in the weld zone are defects. Cut film back. Degrease. Do not melt PVC into the puddle and then wonder why the bead is porous.

  • Stainless-only wire brushes, clearly marked.
  • Abrasives that have not already cut mild steel.
  • No steel wool, ever, on a seen face or a weld prep.
  • Fit-up that does not rely on a carbon-steel clamp digging the face.

Swarf from a site cut on the next bay will rust on your 316 overnight. Cutting on site and this essay are the same contamination story told from two benches.

Heat tint, sugar, and passivation

Straw to blue tint on the face should be removed on anything that has to resist chlorides or pass a hygiene look-over. Inside a tube, sugaring is a corrosion sponge. Purge, or accept that the inside is sacrificial.

Then passivate. Pickling gels are chemicals with rules; citric systems exist; “she’ll brighten up” is not a method.

What heat tint is telling you

Tint is oxidised metal and a damaged passive film. Light straw on an indoor, dry, unseen fillet may be a specification argument. Thick blue-black on a coastal post or a food bench is a corrosion site. Chlorides find the tint first. ASSDA-type guidance treats removal plus passivation as the grown-up sequence on corrosion-critical work.

Mechanical removal (dedicated abrasive, with the grain on a No. 4) and chemical pickling are both used. Mixing a carbon-steel flap disc into that sequence plants iron. Then you have tint and flash rust.

Purge and sugaring

If the inside of a tube is a hygiene surface, a water surface, or a corrosion surface, the root needs a clean gas side or an equivalent method. Sugared ID is black, rough, and eager to hold water. It is not a patina. It is a defect.

Purging is a procedure: seals, flow, oxygen residual if the spec asks. A quick blast down the pipe is theatre. A 316 balustrade with a sugared inside still fails if water sits there.

Distortion and the kitchen

Thin benchtop sheet moves. Stitch, clamp, use a backbone. A continuous hygiene weld still has to be planned so the top does not become a saddle. Coving fails when the return is welded like a structural fillet and the face waves.

Custom-cut returns and folded channel concentrate heat on thin legs. Tack, sequence, let it cool. A 1.2 mm No. 4 will oil-can if you treat it like 6 mm flat bar.

Food-zone welds have a second job: they must be cleanable. A crevice bead is a dirt line. A proud, unfinished ripple holds fat. The inspector is looking at the radius, not your travel speed. Plan the joint so it can be washed with the method in cleaning without chlorides.

After the arc

Remove tint on corrosion-critical work. Rinse pickle residues. Passivate. Keep bleach off the new bead. Hand over a wash note if the job is coastal — coastal care is the owner’s half of the WPS. A weld on mill HRAP will look brighter than the parent until you dress it. That contrast is not rust. Leaving the tint is a rust plan.

What we will not do

We will not give you amps and a travel speed. We will not certify a balustrade because the bead is pretty. Name the standard, write the procedure, keep the tickets. For aftercare, tea staining and cleaning follow the weld.

AS/NZS 1554.6 is the Australian name for structural and shop stainless welding when that world applies. A hygienic bench still needs a written method: alloy, filler, cleanliness, tint, passivation. The fabrication and care map is that method in essays, not in a stamp.

Sources on the bench

Photograph: TIG welding by Mak04. Licensed Public domain. Source file on Wikimedia Commons. Also listed on the image credits and licences page.

Questions people ask

What filler do I use for 316L?

A 316L filler (e.g. ER316L) is the usual match. Do not invent a 308 rod onto a 316 coastal rail and call it marine.

Do I have to purge tube?

If the inside is a hygiene or corrosion surface, yes, or use a method that achieves a clean root. Sugaring is a defect, not a patina.

Is heat tint just cosmetic?

No. Thick tint is a place the passive film is damaged. Remove it and passivate on corrosion-critical work.

TIG or stick for a 316 post?

TIG if the face is seen or the section is thin. Stick if the work is site-structural, thicker, and the procedure says so. The standard and the WPS decide, not a preference.

Why buy 304L or 316L if I am welding?

The L is low carbon. It reduces chromium-carbide precipitation in the heat-affected zone. If you are welding austenitics that have to resist corrosion, you should be on L or proving the procedure.