Custom-cut stainless and sections

Stainless steel flat bar for trades

The dull HRAP lengths that hold brackets, straps, ledgers and truths about finish.

Mill coil as a reminder that bar starts as rolled metal

Photograph: Metal coil in a mill yard by Star61. Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0. Source file on Wikimedia Commons. Also listed on the image credits and licences page.

Published 7 March 2026 · 6 minute read · Filed under Custom-cut stainless and sections

Flat bar is the unglamorous hero of the old catalogue: 304 or 316, No. 1 finish, dull on purpose. It is how Australian fabricators make brackets, straps, bent ears, and the odd ledger that an engineer has actually blessed.

It is not a No. 4 bench. If you need cosmetic sheet, buy sheet. If you need an L, buy angle. If you need a U, buy channel. Flat bar is the rectangle that still does most of the honest work in a stainless shop.

This page sits with the other custom-cut and sections essays. It will not sell you a length.

What you are buying

Widths and thicknesses live in merchant lists — 20 × 3, 25 × 6, 40 × 10, 50 × 12 and up. Lengths are typically 4–6 m, then custom-cut to the job. Edges are mill edges, not furniture. Deburr if a hand will find them.

Grade follows the environment. Indoor plant: 304. Coastal strap on a balustrade: 316. Fasteners: match with A2 or A4.

Finish is usually HRAP / No. 1: hot-rolled, annealed, pickled. Grey, matte. That is not rust. If the bar has to sit next to a brushed splashback, you are asking a mill product to impersonate sheet. Polish is extra work — name it on the order.

Bar, strip and sheet slit

Flat bar is a bar-mill product. It has bar tolerances, bar edges, and a bar identity on a certificate. Strip is often a slit-sheet or narrow-coil cousin: thinner, wider in the sheet sense, different camber, different edge. A 50 × 3 “flat” cut from 3 mm sheet is a blank, not a bar.

Do not mix the words on a structural drawing. An engineer who wrote flat bar meant the section in the software. Substituting slit sheet changes stiffness and edge. If you meant a custom-cut blank, write blank.

Sizes the shop actually says

Lists change. These are the rectangles Australian trades keep in their mouths. Confirm availability. This is not a stock list and it is not a price.

Width × thickness (mm)Everyday useNotes
20 × 3Light straps, small clips, tagsBends easily; not a load story
25 × 3, 25 × 5, 25 × 6Brackets, ties, small framesThe default small bar
32 × 6, 40 × 5, 40 × 6Cleats, ledgers, bent earsPunch or drill before you argue about finish
40 × 10, 50 × 6, 50 × 8Heavier brackets, wear stripsEdges need a thought if a palm can find them
50 × 10, 50 × 12Engineered cleats, simple framesHRAP will show every weld
75 × 10, 100 × 12Ledgers, base plates, guardsStill bar, still dull, still not a bench

Cut on a dedicated stainless saw. A carbon-steel blade leaves iron in the cut. Protecting stainless during install starts on the rack: timber or plastic bearers, no rusty chain.

Brackets, straps and the jobs that fit

  • Brackets and cleats. Two holes, a bend or a weld, a known thickness. This is the product.
  • Straps and ties. 20 × 3 and 25 × 3 around a duct, a pipe, a light cover. Match alloy to the thing you are hugging. A 304 strap on a coastal 316 rail is a brown stripe.
  • Bent ears. Heat or press. Austenitics work-harden; a tight cold bend on thick bar can crack the outer fibre if you rush it.
  • Wear strips. 316 if the wear is wet and salty. Still HRAP unless you paid to dress it.
  • Simple frames. Welded rectangles. Design the corner; a flat-bar frame is not automatically square.
  • Shims that will stay wet. Then 316, and accept that a shim is a crevice.

Uses that need a conversation: anything a palm will slide on, a food-zone lug that cannot be washed, anything asked to be a spring. Flat bar is a rectangle, not a leaf spring. See the fabrication and care hub before you hide a bracket where a hose cannot reach.

Fabrication

Flat bar bends on a press. Hole-punching work-hardens austenitics; drill if the finish matters. Welding is ordinary 304/316 practice — welding essay — plus the reminder that a dull bar will show a bright weld until you pickle or dress it.

Do not grind it with a carbon-steel wheel and then complain about rust freckles. Protection during install applies to bar sitting on a rusty rack.

Bending

Inside radius should respect thickness. A 3 mm strap will take a tight ear. A 10 mm cleat will not take a 3 mm internal and stay pretty. Warming thick austenitic bar is a procedure, not a rosebud and hope. If the bend is structural, the engineer already had a radius in mind — use it.

Springback is larger than mild steel. Check the first piece. A batch of 40 × 6 ears at 85° is a site argument with a mill certificate attached.

Holes

Punching is fast and common. It leaves a rollover on one face and a break on the other. Deburr. On a seen face, drill and countersink if you must, or punch and dress. Slots for adjustment are drill-and-file or mill work; a chain of punched holes is a tear waiting for a load.

Spacing from the edge still matters. A 6 mm hole in a 20 × 3 strap with 4 mm of edge is a stamp, not a connection. Follow the drawing.

Welding and the bright bead

304/304L to 308L filler, 316/316L to 316L filler. 304 versus 316 does not take a day off because the part is a cleat. A 308 bead on a coastal 316 strap is a line of weaker alloy.

Heat tint on HRAP is obvious: a rainbow on a grey bar. Remove it on outdoor and hygiene work, then passivate. A pretty grind that smears carbon steel is worse than the tint you started with.

Distortion: a 3 mm strap will banana if you run a long fillet. Stitch. Clamp. A 12 mm bar will move less and still move.

Finish, edges and hands

HRAP will show fingerprints less than a polish and dirt more than a 2B sheet. Wash it like the rest of the stainless: neutral detergent, no bleach, no steel wool. Cleaning without chlorides is the same chemistry on a bar as on a bench.

Edges cut people. A 50 × 10 mill edge on a handrail-height member is a design problem. Break the arris, or specify a dressed edge, or stop calling it a rail. Coastal care will not save a sharp heel that also ponds salt.

If you polish bar to match an adjacent No. 4, use dedicated abrasives with the grain. A wheel that already cut carbon steel is a rust tool.

Alloy and the wet strap

Indoor plant and dry frames: 304. Coastal straps and pool-fence cleats: 316, and still wash it. 316 tea-stains on a horizontal strap that holds water. Tea staining is not proof the merchant swapped the alloy; it is proof the strap is a shelf. A2 into 316 outdoors is a brown halo. Isolate carbon-steel structure behind a stainless strap or the rust will print through.

For a true L or U, go back to angle and channel. For the weld, the film and the wash, stay in fabrication and care.

Sources on the bench

Photograph: Metal coil in a mill yard by Star61. Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0. Source file on Wikimedia Commons. Also listed on the image credits and licences page.

Questions people ask

Why is stainless flat bar not shiny?

Most mill bar is No. 1 / HRAP. It is pickled, not polished. Polish is extra work.

Can I use flat bar as a handrail?

You can, if the designer said so and the edges are safe. A raw 50 × 10 HRAP bar is a mill product, not an architectural rail finish.

Is flat bar the same as strip?

Strip and sheet slit are cousins. Flat bar is a bar-mill product with bar tolerances. Do not mix the words on a structural drawing.

What thickness should a bracket start at?

Thick enough that the engineer or the load agrees. A 25 × 3 strap is a tie. A 50 × 10 cleat is a different product. Do not scale a photo.

Will a punched hole crack 316 bar?

Austenitics work-harden. Punching is common; it can raise a ridge and a hard edge. Drill if the finish or the fatigue story matters, then deburr and passivate.